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HORTICULTURAL BITS & PIECES NEAR SUMMER'S END
I've heard many laments lately about sickly tomato plants. Leaf drop begins at the base and moves up the stem, leaving fruit and stems that resemble an Easter egg tree.
Causes may include "early blight," "late blight," Fusarium wilt or Verticillium wilt - all fungus-related diseases.
There's really nothing you can do to help this year's plants. Leave unripened fruit on the plant until the stalk starts to weaken - the fruit is safe to eat but may not reach full maturity.
Preventive measures that might help next year include selecting seed or seedlings that have bred-in resistance or tolerance (a "V" or "F" on the seed packet or i-d stake indicates resistance to Verticillium wilt and Fusarium wilt).
Many fungi overwinter in the soil, so rotating your tomato plants to new ground may reduce incidence of blight.
Jackie Smith, Carver/Scott Master Gardener from Belle Plaine, has an impressive stand of tomatoes that don't show a trace of blight. Her secret? She lays black plastic on the soil beneath the plants. "The secret is to never let tomato leaves come in contact with the soil," she advises.
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This is a good time to plant trees, shrubs and perennials. Planting now gives the plants a chance to establish a new root system before the ground freezes later in the fall. By mulching newly planted trees with 4-6 inches of wood chips or shredded bark, the soil below the mulch will remain unfrozen for several weeks longer than unprotected ground. Mulch also will help control weed growth around the base of the tree next spring.
Too often, amateur tree planters fail to dig a large enough hole for young trees. The hole should be large enough to accommodate the root system without crowding. Straighten out any roots that are curved around the perimeter of the container. If your initial hole is too small to allow straightening of the roots, make the hole larger rather than bending the roots to fit the hole.
The soil you remove from the hole can be used to refill around the roots - some experts suggest that the soil dug from the hole is better than "foreign" soil, since this is the type of soil the tree will have to grow in as it matures. As you dig the hole, pile the good topsoil in one pile and any clumps, roots and rocks you dig up in another pile and then use the good soil for refilling.
Planting depth should be no deeper than it was in the nursery. A shovel handle can be laid across the hole to determine the proper depth. Hold the tree in place and fill in around the roots with good topsoil. Watering as you add soil will help eliminate air pockets.
Water until the entire root system is saturated, then add a ring of mulch. Remember to pull away 1-2 inches of mulch around the tree truck down to ground level to permit air movement and prevent disease.
For balled and burlapped trees, remove any ties that hold the burlap around the root ball. Leave burlap on the root ball, as it will gradually decompose in the soil.
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Late August and early September is an ideal time to over-seed thin areas of your lawn or to start a new lawn from seed. Longer, cooler nights create conditions favorable to seedling growth, and weed seeds that plague spring planting will not geminate in autumn.
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Do you have a giant pumpkin worth bragging about? Mine was doing well up until the heavy rains but the vine that was feeding it got flooded when the pond rose, and growth appears to have stopped. My brother claims to have a monster that's still growing - if you've got a big pumpkin, drop a note to the address below and we'll send our photographer/judge to your pumpkin patch for a closer look!
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PUTTING DOWN ROOTS:
A Delightful Blend of
Gardening Wisdom, Wit
and Whimsy
$10 + $2 for shipping
by Cliff Johnson |
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