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  HOME > GARDENING COLUMNS > 1995 > STARTING SEEDS INDOORS EXTENDS GARDENING SEASON

  STARTING SEEDS INDOORS EXTENDS GARDENING SEASON

Starting a few seeds indoors has been the rather modest launch of many a greenhouse career.

It all begins so innocently - a few tomato seeds planted in pots in a south window. Then next year, a few more seeds, maybe under a fluorescent light. Next thing you know, you're studying plans to construct a 30 ft. x 100 ft. greenhouse.

But starting seeds indoors doesn't have to get quite so out of hand. If you like summertime gardening, starting seeds indoors is a terrific way to extend the gardening season.

Depending on which seeds you choose, your "labor of love" can begin as late as May 1 or as earlier as January.

Although the optimum starting date has passed for some annual flowers, late April and early May are the ideal time to start tomatoes, beets, melons and pumpkins.

While many indoor seed starters have their secrets and special techniques, there is no one best way to start seeds indoors. There are, however, some proven techniques that will help you avoid problems.

Containers - Use only new or sterilized containers that have drain holes at the bottom. I like to start seeds in plastic 4- or 6-pack containers saved from past-year flower purchases. To sterilize containers, soak in a 10% bleach solution (1 cup household chlorine bleach/9 cups water) for 15 minutes.

Planting Medium - Soil should be loose and finely textured, well-drained, low in nutrients, and sterile. I've had good success with Fisons Sunshine Mix No. 3 (sphagnum peat moss, dolomitic limestone + wetting agent).

Timing - There's a wide range in optimum starting dates for seeds, and the temptation is to start seeds too early - refer to seed packets for proper timing. Tuberous begonias can be started in January, marigolds in early March, and melons and squash in late April. The best way to know for sure is to keep a diary from year to year.

Light - For most plants, window light is not sufficient. I light seedlings 18 hours/day with fluorescent shop lights plugged to a timer. Hang lights so seedlings are within 4-6 inches of light tubes.

Temperature - Most seeds germinate best at 70-75ƒF and grow best at 65ƒF. I like to geminate seeds upstairs, then move containers to the basement under lights. Keep containers covered with a plastic hood or glass until seeds germinate, then move to lights.

Water/Fertilizer - Water seedlings from below by placing containers in a pan of water. Remove containers when moisture shows on the surface. Since peat-moss soil contains few nutrients, a soluble fertilizer should be mixed with water according to label directions.

Damping Off - This is a fungus disease that attacks seedlings, causing them to collapse and die. Sterile soil and sterile containers are the best protection.

Hardening - Seedlings are too fragile to withstand the shock of moving straight from under lights to outdoor wind and cool air. They should be acclimated gradually in their containers (hardening) by exposing to outdoor conditions in steps building up to all-day exposure.

For more information on starting seeds indoors, pick up the "Starting Garden Seed Indoors" bulletin from your county extension office.
 
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PUTTING DOWN ROOTS:
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