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FIGHTING WEEDS IN GROUNDCOVERS; WATERING DURING DRY SPELLS
Q. Several years ago, groundcovers (pachysandra, myrtle, ajuga and vetch) were planted in our yard. Now, these plants are being crowded out by grasses, vines, etc. Other than pulling out the offenders, is there a solution?
A. Probably none you'll like. Unfortunately, there is no magic chemical I know of that will kill everything except the ground covers your want to save. One of the problems with groundcovers is that it takes several years for them to form a canopy that will shade out unwanted "weeds." (One of my University horticulture professors defined a weed as "a flower out of place.")
One mail order catalog offering the groundcovers you mention recommends planting individual ground cover plants, or clumps of stems, 6 inches apart to achieve a solid cover in two years. Plants placed in loose soil that has been enriched with organic matter will form a canopy faster than plants placed in unworked, compacted soil.
Once a site has become infested with perennial weeds, it is very difficult to rid that area of weeds because many weeds will continue growing from pieces of root tissue.
The two choices I see for your situation - neither of which is very exciting - are:
Continue pulling weeds by the roots and wait for the desired plants to form a canopy; or
Dig out the pachysandra, vinca, ajuga and vetch and replant it in a temporary "nursery" (all you want to do is keep it alive for a week). Then spray the original ground with Roundup to kill all remaining weeds. After seven days (consult label for exact timing), roto-till the soil, work in compost, and re-plant the desirable ground cover plants.
The best time to plant groundcovers is spring after soil can be worked. This will give your groundcover plants a full growing season to get established and build their root system.
Q. How important is it to water plants during dry spells?
A. It is critical. As of last Sunday, parts of Carver County had received no rain since June 10.
Plants have widely varying needs for supplemental water. A 100-foot oak tree rarely needs watering, while a newly seeded lawn may need a daily sprinkling.
A general rule of thumb is to be sure your landscape receives about 1 inch of water per week from rain and/or watering systems. Garden beds with lots of compost and mulch lose little or no water from evaporation, while exposed lawn and plants with no mulch dry out much more quickly.
During periods of no rain, you may need to water your garden beds and lawn two or three times a week for about 20 minutes. That means putting about 1 quart of water on each square foot of garden space, resulting in about 1/2 gallon of water a week. Water should be allowed to penetrate the plant's total root zone, which can go down 12 inches or more, depending on plant size.
Young trees - particularly newly transplanted trees - need plenty of water to get their roots established. A 12-foot balled-and-burlapped tree may require 40-50 gallons of water per week. The best way to water a tree is to let your hose run slowly at the base for 15 minutes or longer, depending on soil type. One reference I have says that to moisten dry clay soil to a depth of four feet may require a day and a half of irrigation!
The best way to ensure your plants are receiving adequate moisture is to watch your rain gauge and supplement rainfall with periodic watering. And remember, with no rain since June 10, we've got some catching up to do.
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PUTTING DOWN ROOTS:
A Delightful Blend of
Gardening Wisdom, Wit
and Whimsy
$10 + $2 for shipping
by Cliff Johnson |
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