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FINAL WALK AROUND THE YARD BEFORE THE SNOW FLIES
Seems like winter came early this year, but compared with the Halloween blizzard of a couple of years ago, I guess we should count our blessings.
I did the final "gardening walk" around my yard Saturday, finishing those chores I'd overlooked in recent weeks. I carried the hoses to the basement to warm up and be drained, cut the tops off perennials and loaded them into the compost bin, and filled bird feeders with suet. If it hasn't snowed by the time you read this, I recommend one last look around your yard - maybe you'll discover the hoe or pruning shears that's been missing since July.
Two tree-care chores that should also be done now are to wrap the trunks of young maples to prevent split bark from the effect of warm winter sun followed by quick cool down after sunset; and covering young yews and arborvitae to reduce winterburn.
Not all perennials should be cut back in the fall. Mary Meyer, state Master Gardener coordinator, cites research that showed that mums survive the winter better if left uncut. "Removing foliage probably removes carbohydrates or food reserves and predisposes plants to winter injury," she says. She adds that foliage can also catch snow and leaves that protect the crown throughout the winter. Meyer also recommends that ornamental grasses not be cut back until spring.
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I've been starting tuberous begonias from seed in recent years because they're fun to grow and they produce beautiful flowers in containers in shady areas like my back deck. One thing I haven't done is attempt to store tubers from the plants for replanting. I haven't tried it because begonia plants generally don't produce sizable tubers in our Minnesota growing season. Apparently the plants direct most of their energy into producing foliage and flowers.
A discussion on the internet last week caught my attention and may provide a solution for next year. Floriculture experts at Michigan State University say that short days (10 hours of light) are necessary for an extended period to induce dormancy and tuber formation. Perhaps moving the pots into the basement in September will keep the plants alive and lead to tuber formation. If you've had success producing tuberous begonias and saving the tubers, drop me a note and I'll include your ideas in a future column.
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A related challenge is growing Amaryllis year around. I set my bulb in the garden in June, re-pot it in the fall and it blooms in early spring. University of Minnesota horticulturist Deb Brown questions the value of setting Amaryllis bulbs in the garden in summer, since this causes the plant to "grow tons of roots" but not the size of its bulb. She leaves her Amaryllis in the pot year-round, setting it outside in summer, and only re-pots it when the roots threaten to break the pot apart.
A woman writing on the internet said she keeps five bulbs going year-round and last year they produced 36 flowers on stalks that were nearly 3 feet tall!
It's worth knowing these procedures for Amaryllis because, as sure as day follows night, about 10% of you will receive Amaryllis bulbs for Christmas this year and then you, too, will be in the Amaryllis-growing business!
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PUTTING DOWN ROOTS:
A Delightful Blend of
Gardening Wisdom, Wit
and Whimsy
$10 + $2 for shipping
by Cliff Johnson |
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