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IT'S TIME TO START SEEDS FOR YOUR WINTER GARDEN!
I start flower and vegetable seeds indoors in late winter for many reasons, but two reasons top the list:
First, plants I've started indoors from seed seem to return more satisfaction during the growing season - it's kind of like that special feeling of watching your own kids perform in a concert or athletic event, compared with watching someone else's kids.
Second, few gifts are more fun to give in May than a tray of petunias or a vigorous tomato plant. What's more, long after you've forgotten the gift, the recipient will often inform you that, "That pepper plant you gave me is just loaded with peppers," or "You should see how beautiful that geranium is that I got from you."
Whatever your reasons for starting seeds indoors, the time is nearly here to get started. While many indoor seed starters have their secrets and special techniques, there is no one best way to start seeds indoors. Last week I reviewed the timetable for what seeds to plant when. This week, I'll review some procedures and techniques that will help you avoid problems.
Containers - Use only new or sterilized containers that have drain holes at the bottom. I like to start seeds in plastic 4- or 6-pack containers saved from past-year flower purchases. To sterilize containers, soak in a 10% bleach solution (1 cup household chlorine bleach/9 cups water) for 15 minutes.
Planting Medium - Soil should be loose and finely textured, well drained, low in nutrients, and sterile. Use a commercial blend, as plain garden soil will result in poor performance. I've had good success with Fisons Sunshine Mix No. 3 (sphagnum peat moss, dolomitic limestone + wetting agent).
Timing - There's a wide range in optimum starting dates for seeds, and the temptation is to start seeds too early - refer to seed packets (and last week's column) for proper timing. Tuberous begonias can be started in January, marigolds in early April, and melons and squash in late April. The best way to know for sure is to keep a diary from year to year.
Light - For most plants, window light is not sufficient. I light seedlings 16 hours/day with fluorescent shop lights plugged to a timer. Hang lights from adjustable chains so seedlings can be kept within 2-4 inches of light tubes.
Temperature - Most seeds germinate best at 70-75ƒF and grow best at 65ƒF. I like to germinate seeds upstairs, then move containers to the basement under lights. Keep containers covered with a plastic hood or glass until seeds germinate, then move to lights.
Water/Fertilizer - Water seedlings from below by placing containers in a pan of water. Remove containers when moisture shows on the surface. Once seedlings are up, reduce watering intervals so top of soil has a chance to dry out slightly. Since peat mixtures contain few nutrients, a soluble fertilizer should be mixed with water according to label directions.
Damping Off - This is a fungus disease that attacks seedlings, causing them to collapse and die. Sterile soil and sterile containers are the best protection; also, avoid over-watering.
Hardening - Seedlings are too fragile to withstand the shock of moving straight from under lights to outdoor wind and cool air. They should be acclimated gradually in their containers (hardening) by exposing to outdoor conditions in steps building up to all-day exposure.
For more information on starting seeds indoors, pick up the "Starting Garden Seed Indoors" bulletin from your county extension office.
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PUTTING DOWN ROOTS:
A Delightful Blend of
Gardening Wisdom, Wit
and Whimsy
$10 + $2 for shipping
by Cliff Johnson |
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